Time is of the essence. Builders may get sponsor compensation but no guarantees at this early point in time. We finally managed to get around to starting on the Harman Spirder build p roject that's been on the back burner for about four years now. The link is on the left column. Due to popular demand we've decided to start building Springers again. We'll do our original 'Old School' style and the 'modernized' version plus some repops of the old original Ness style forks from the sixties.
I'll post progress as it develops. We'll be doing kits as well as just selling individual parts for other builders.
Also looks like we'll get around to the Sporty hardtail article this summer. This snapshot is one of our neighbors taken from the back door of the shop. We've rented a very small shop area but will be doing full-service custom work again and have signed on as a dealer for Paughco products. We decided to go with Paughco since we've been using their parts for over 30 years and most of their inventory is still made in the USA which is remarkable in today's economy.
If you're in the market for anything in the catalog drop us a line as we will make you some great deals. As many people are aware the old original Chopper Builders Handbook site suffered what we initially thought was a catastrophic hardware and software failure in early This 'crash' destroyed not only the primary data on the main server and raid disks but also all of the data on our backup server. We took the drives to a service shop in an attempt to recover the files and found that the 'crash' was most likely a deliberate hack of the site that somehow went very badly.
The only data that was actually destroyed beyond repair were the image files. A good portion of the html text files were still readable but moved into some strange directories apparently in some attempt to download the entire site to a remote server.
Unfortunately a lot of the most recent files that we added to the site were simply to scrambled to bother recovering. As a result of this situation we're presently in the process of rebuilding the site from the ground up but that will take a considerable effort and most likely be a long and drawn out process.
We ask all of our visitors to be patient with us as we start down this road. In addition I'd like to thank all of the visitors who have supported this site through thick and thin over the past eight years and especially thank those of you have taken the time to help us in this rebuilding process. I think that in the long run we have a much better and more helpful site than the original version.
We're trying our best to get the site back up and running again so please be patient during this transition. Copyright ,, G. Weishaupt, All Rights Reserved. Contact me if interested. Update June 25, We updated parts of several articles and finally finished the Ness Springer build series with full scale plan options.
More power to em as it is a great resource for the community thanks in my opinion to Lisa Ballard who admin's the site In a similar fashion we're still truckin along here. Update March 31, We decided at the first of March to use Google Analytics on the new version of the site in order to find out if what we publish was actually being used by people.
I might call upon Lisa Ballard for some help once the virus is gone. Some good projects coming this year so stay tuned. Update June 1, Sportster Projects are finally underway after many years. Update Dec. I then welded the seat tube to the plate.
Next, let's turn our attention to the top tubes. Again, these are just floating - they're not attached to anything yet. Picture 6. Again, I made another plate from sheet steel. You can't see it, but I used the angle grinder to make a slot in the seat tube. I inserted the steel plate into the slot, then tack welded the plate to the seat tube. This slot means the joint will be a lot stronger and there will be less downward stress on the weld.
Next, I welded the two top tubes to the steel plate. The frame needs some more strengthening. The next step is to join a new piece of steel tube from the bottom bracket shell to the top tubes. This will replace the seat tube which is now towards the back of the frame. Picture 1. Using the same trick of making a cardboard template, I made a steel sheet plate and welded it to a new piece of steel tubing. Be careful with the length of the tube - if it's too long, it will hit the bottom bracket axle.
Make sure the tube fits into the bottom bracket shell, but not too far in. Picture 2 shows the frame, fully welded. I'm going to take full advantage of the twin top tubes, and mount a seat on top of the tubes. The seat is going to be a simple construction of scrap wood, scrap foam and scrap leather. Picture 1: I screwed two pieces of scrap wood together, then drilled holes in the wood through to the plates below.
I used some bolts and nuts to check it fitted OK. Now for some upholstery! Picture 2: I used a heavy-duty staple gun to staple some foam to the wood. Picture 3: Again, use the stapler to staple leather scraps to the seat. Next step is to fit the handlebars. You have three choice with the handlebars 1. Use the existing handlebars.
In my case, they're racing drop-handlebars, so they're not suitable. Make your own. If you have some steel tubing you can either make your own bars using a pipe bender or by cutting and welding into the right shape 3. Use other bars. I had some scrap motorcycle handlebars, so I decided to use these. Step 1. The clamp. I used the seat from the donor bike, and removed the seat clamp from underneath the saddle.
Picture 1 shows the seat clamp loosely assembled around the handlebars. It's a pretty good fit so we'll go with these. Picture 2: Next we position on of the seat clamp grips onto our top plate we made earlier. Picture 3: Tack weld the seat clamp plate to the top plate Picture 4: Weld the seat clamp to the top plate and assemble the seat clamp around the handlebars. We now have a fully adjustable handlebar clamp.
If you use the same wheels that came with the bike, you won't have to bother with this step. I wasn't happy with the 27 inch wheels thats the bike came with. I decided to change them for sturdy 26 inch mountain bike wheels. For this to work, I had to alter the brake hanger. Picture 1: I worked out where the brake caliper had to be mounted and tack-welded a section of plate across the rear chainstays. Note that the mounting hole is not central, this is due to errors in my frame alignment.
Picture 2: Check the brake caliper fits and functions correctly by hand before final welding. Picture 3 shows the welded plate and the caliper mounted. It works OK. I used a spare brake lever I had from another bike. Build the bike back up, and give it a test ride. I decided not to use the existing gears and derailleur, I thought I'd convert it to a single speed.
This single speed adapter simply replaces the gear cassette. Picture 2: shows the assembled bike. Dismantle the bike. Use a grinder and a disk to neaten the welds and get rid of any spatter and blobs. Spray paint the frame and forks. Be careful to shield the bearing cups and all threaded areas from the paint.
Use several light coats of paint to prevent the paint running. I hope you enjoyed this instructable! I got a bit bored with the bike, so I decided to make some modifications. I dismantled the bike and cut the back end off. I picked up a back-end of a small mountain bike. It was from a full-suspension bike, so I used my angle grinder to grind away the tabs of the new back frame. I welded two more extension tubes to the top, then painted and reassembled the bike.
The rear wheel is now a coaster brake so I do not need the rear brake mechanism, cable and lever. Question 9 months ago. Where is the brake system , if i made this then i ride, if don't have any brake system then how can i stop my bicycle. Please help, I do not understand! Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. Reply 12 years ago on Introduction. Hi, Mickalobe i loved your bike, could you please send to me the measurements that you have used to make your bike please. Reply 11 years ago on Introduction.
Most normal bikes tend to centre themselves if you take your hands off the bars. However, choppers and bikes with a long rake are naturally unstable. You have to fight to keep the wheel centred. If you take your hands off the bars, the wheel will instantly fall to one side. It takes about 10 minutes to get used to it, though.
I actually rode the first version in a charity bike ride for 24 miles! Very cool. How to Build a Cheap Chopper. Timothy Remus. Choppers don't have to cost thirty thousand dollars. In fact, a chopper built at home can be had for as little as five thousand dollars. The key is the use of a donor bike for most of the components. How to Build a Cheap Chopper documents the construction of four inexpensive choppers with complete start-to-finish photo sequences.
Least expensive is the metric chopper, based on a s vintage Japanese four-cylinder engine and transmission installed in a hardtail frame. Don't look for billet accessories or a fancy candy paint job on this one.
0コメント