To the left of the drivers foot well. It's pretty simple really but i had to mechanics help me but so much better in manual. Sounds like a not too bad of a job, i feel confident to do it myself - have many friends who will help too. Only thing is i'l have to do it on the floor because i doubt my boss will let me use a ramp lol. Just seen so many good condition auto s14's and it seems like a good idea to convert them seeing as i have alot of time on my hands!
Now i need too source the parts from somewhere! I am currently selling off my project car, it contains everything you require to do a full auto to manual conversion, also you can sell off the rest of the bits you dont need from the car meaning you could get the conversion done for free.
Not sure if this is good protocol but there is a good step by step here Auto to Manual Writeup 5 speed conversion : SX Technical Forum. Finally got it! On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your driveshaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake not too hard there guys.
Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft suport a thick wire X-member that keeps the driveshaft from whipping around if it breaks.
Next, remove the bracket that holds the middle of the driveshaft up, and slide out your driveshaft. Next, remove the dust plates from the transmission bellhousing, they are at the very front of the transmission.
Disconnect these hardlines and pull them out. Get them out of your engine bay. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust.
Two of the sensors can be cut. Now for one of the time consuming parts this took us most of a day. You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench ontop of the engine.
For some of the other bolts we used a socket with swivels , and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. One of the top ones has a recirculation pipe bracket attached to it, the pipe runs down to the transmission — disconnect it and remove the bolt. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.
We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the crossmember, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the crossmember. At the same time, get as many jacks as you can under the tranny — in a few steps it will come off.
Also, there is an exhaust bracket on the tranny you must remove. Where you took the dust plates off of the bellhousing earlier, you should be able to look back into the transmission and see some bolts holding the torque converter onto the flywheel — undo these 4 bolts.
To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pully. Note: the flywheel gets hard to turn when the engine starts a compression stroke. After the torque converter is unbolted, the transmission will come loose if not, you can kick it from the front some — it will pop off and weighs about — lbs. Get some of your friends to help with this part. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before.
This next step is very frustrating. Brace your flywheel from moving as best you can. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts. If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more.
If you unlike us have an impact wrench this may come in handy. Basically you get a new bolt that will fit into a hole on the flywheel the hole not used to bolt to the crankshaft and use a bellhousing bolt.
Run a chain between the two bolts as shown in the diagram below. Put the chain on and then turn the flywheel to add tension to the chain. The chain will now keep the flywheel from spinning. This works great to hold the flywheel if you don't have an impact gun.
To remove the bushing either chisel it out with an air chisel, or dremel which will take about 30 minutes to an hour or go rent a pilot bushing remover tool and slide hammer from autozone and use it which will take about 20 seconds.
Three hours later with a dremel and lots of broken bits we got the darn bearing out. Procedure — Manual Install I did not include what needs to be lubed, so check your FSM for where to put on lithium grease - some parts of the transmission need it, and some like the clutch disc will not work if they get greasy. Now you are about halfway done. Sand inside your crankshaft with some grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in.
Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Once it gets slid in all the way it should not go any further but it does go pretty far into the crankshaft. Then, push on your manual transmission gasket it should align itself on some dowels 2. Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. Keep the alignemen tool in the clutch and the crankshaft — you will take it off later.
If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignement tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch.
Bolt down the pressure plate to the flywheel — there are some dowels on the flywheel that fit into the pressure plate. This conversion comes with all you need to swap your front-end. When you are dealing with the relatively light curb weight of the sx, you don t need a ls1 or ls2, when a lm, lq or similarly found gen iii block can be just as powerful at a fraction of the cost.
Bolt on ls1 swap kit for your s14 sx. So i know that pretty much any rb box would fit on it, but with the drive shaft. You'll need , gear box,manual drive shaft,fly wheel, clutch, clutch pedal with master, slave, manual brake pedal and dont for get to change the spigot bearing to a manual spigot bearing i think thats it.
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Do not use the rg in any application where the false indication of water or a missed valid detection of water could cause damage to life or property. I have an el fairmont gia and my ex before he left me with the car converted it to poorly. July 4th weekend we finally had a chance to dust the cob webs off the s14 and in stock now!
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